SENORA SUMAS SET TO PARTY!

El Nopal’s spirited staff members and longtime customers call her the Señora of Sumas, the border-town güera and Chica of Cherry Street.
Despite the hot and spicy accolades circulating inside her venerable Mexican family restaurant, a blushing Wendy Gonzalez said she prefers to be known as the reluctant general manager “and full-time slave.”
You see, this affable mother of five daughters who works seven days a week and gets less sleep than New York City, isn’t the brainchild behind this established eatery – that would be husband José, who can be found most nights playing cards, foosball, darts or sharing stories and shots with patrons.
In fact, owner José is kind of like super-greeter Mr. Roarke of Fantasy Island fame, only he has a tequila bottle in one hand and margarita glass in the other as he welcomes the thirsty and hungry to his piece of Washington nirvana.
“He’s good at that hosting stuff, which is great considering all of this was his idea in the first place,” said a smiling Gonzalez, who unintentionally has become one of the major employers in the tiny town where everybody knows everybody’s business.
Sumas, for those with convenient memory loss, used to be Abbotsford’s adult playground, kind of like what Tijuana is to San Diego – a quasi-discreet place for dancing, drinking and debauchery. In other words, where you could act like Tiger Woods and friends whenever the urge struck.
But the past decade or so hasn’t been kind to this patch of U.S. soil due to a fluctuating dollar, recession, higher taxes, longer border lineups, enhanced security since 9/11 and less disposable income.
More businesses are boarded up than actually operating, but optimism hasn’t disappeared despite the business meltdown.
Gonzalez has survived and thrived. In fact, she recently expanded her busy Call Me Crazy Gifts store at the south end of Cherry Street, and this year with her hubby’s urging opened another El Nopal restaurant in Ferndale, a 30-kilometre drive west of Sumas.
And yes, she looks after that challenging venture, too!
“We do everything as a team, but I was happy just running my gift store while José looked after the restaurant. Over time, it all became my responsibility. I’m not complaining, but it is kind of strange how José’s dream became a 24/7 organizational challenge for me.”
The Gonzalez combo has done a remarkable job since 1988 enhancing the Sumas restaurant, expanding its delicious and affordable menu, plus maintaining its homey atmosphere. It helps they’ve had the same great cook for 19 years.
Bryce Holtry, a former U.S. fiddle champion who often offers impromptu performances, was recently added to work the bar and pull-tab counter. He’s added some welcome humour and extra hustle to the place, Gonzalez said, plus he’s given super-server Joaquin Suarez some competition for the most popular staffer title.
El Nopal is holding a party next Saturday (8:30 p.m. start) to thank its Canadian and U.S. customers for decades of loyalty.
Gonzalez had originally hoped to squeeze in some Christmas shopping, but José figured a “night of fun and entertainment” was needed, so he called up DJ Felix, rounded up door prizes, came up with some games and told his wife to “make it happen!” He just kind of “forgot” to give her lots of time to do that!
She hasn’t come up with a catchy name for the party just yet – she’s still figuring out the scheduling, the babysitting, the festive shopping, the gift store logistics, the Ferndale expansion and when she might sleep.
“My wonderful ‘idea man’ and I will have a talk about this latest brainstorm! He owes me really, really big – again!”